All you need to know about linen - Guide Le Jacquard Français

 

 

Collection essentiel

 

Linen, a high-end, eco-friendly, hard-wearing material

Immerse yourself in the fascinating world of linen, a plant whose historical and cultural importance dates back to ancient times. Discover its history, its cultivation process, its properties, and its traditional and modern uses. In France, linen occupies a privileged place in the textile industry, thanks to its strength, softness and natural appearance. It's an ideal choice for top-of-the-range bath and table linens such as you'll find at Le Jacquard Français. With its lightness and sheen, this natural fabric adds a touch of elegance and sophistication when used for home linen.

 

The history of linen: ancient origins

Linen has been woven into the fabric of human history for thousands of years. The first traces of its use date back over 30,000 years, when wild-spun, dyed and knotted linen fibers were discovered in the Dzudzuana cave in present-day Georgia. Flax then flourished in the Fertile Crescent region, marking the beginning of a close relationship between man and this precious plant. Ancient Egyptian temples were adorned with paintings depicting flax in bloom, and mummies were wrapped in linen for embalming, testifying to the importance attached to this exceptional fiber. Egyptian priests wore linen exclusively, considered a symbol of purity. The Phoenicians then traded Egyptian linen throughout the Mediterranean, and the Romans used it for their sails. In the Middle Ages, the European linen industry reached its apogee in Flanders. The linen cloth produced in this region was renowned for its quality and finesse, gracing the tables of nobles and wealthy merchants alike. In North America, settlers introduced flax cultivation, which flourished on these lands. However, in the early 20th century, cheap cotton and rising farm wages led to a decline in flax production, which concentrated mainly in northern Russia, supplying 90% of the world's production.
Over the centuries, flax growing developed in France, making the country a major player in the textile industry. Today, although flax has lost its importance as a commercial crop, its heritage persists. Linen is a symbol of refinement and quality, offering tables a touch of elegance and creating a warm atmosphere for meals.

 

Linen cultivation

 

Growing flax is an art mastered by farmers who combine rigor and passion. Sown between March and April, flax reaches maturity in around 100 days, benefiting from a mild, rainy spring. In mid-June, the flax flowers, giving rise to magnificent blue fields. Even in adverse weather, flax is a resilient plant. Flax is harvested in mid-July, using a meticulous technique to preserve the precious fiber extending from the roots to the top of the stem. A week after harvesting, the flax seeds are harvested for sowing the following year.

 

The properties of linen fiber

 

Linen is a plant fiber with many interesting properties. Linen fiber has both physical and chemical properties. Here are the physical properties of linen fiber:

  • Color: yellowish to gray
  • Length: 18 to 30 inches
  • Tensile strength: 5.5 to 6.5 g/den tenacity, higher than cotton
  • Elongation at break: 2.7 to 3.5%
  • Elastic recovery: low
  • Specific gravity: 1.50
  • Moisture regain: 10 to 12%
  • Heat resistance: excellent
  • Sunlight resistance: good
  • Resilience: very low
  • Luster: brighter than cotton, slightly silky
  • Chemical properties of linen :
  • Resistant to dilute acids, with risk of damage from concentrated acids if not rinsed quickly
  • Resistant to strong alkalis
  • Resistance to chlorine-based bleaching agents
  • High resistance to common cleaning solvents
  • Resistant to insects, but vulnerable to fungi and bacteria
  • Can be dyed with direct and vat dyes

 

 

The advantages of linen

 

Linen offers many advantages. Its exceptional strength means it gains in solidity when wet, making it a reliable and durable choice. In addition, its hydrophilic properties enable it to absorb water quickly and dry quickly, which is particularly practical for table and bath linen. What's more, it's easy to care for, as it can be washed many times and withstands high temperatures during washing and ironing. Unlike other fabrics, linen has no electrical problems.Its unique texture, resulting from the thick and fine pattern of its fibers, gives linen products a refined, elegant aesthetic. In brief, the advantages of linen are :

  • Excellent resistance: It gains in resistance when wet
  • Hydrophilic: It absorbs water and dries quickly.
  • Cool in hot weather (for garments): Provides a pleasantly cool sensation.
  • Washable: Can be easily washed.
  • Withstands very high temperatures during washing and ironing.
  • No static electricity, pilling or linting problems.
  • Unique texture: It features a thick, fine fiber pattern, giving it a distinctive texture.

 

 

Traditional uses for linen

 

Linen is a multi-purpose fiber widely used in the textile industry, notably in the manufacture of tablecloths, table linens and high-end upholstery fabrics. Its unique texture, combined with its refined aesthetic appeal, evokes a sense of luxury and sophistication. For elegant apparel or high-end home furnishings, linen is a preferred choice for those seeking products that are both durable, natural and eco-responsible.Here are some common uses for linen:

  • High-end tablecloths and linens
  • Upholstery fabrics and curtains
  • High-quality clothing
  • Fashion items such as dresses, shirts and pants
  • Bed linen and pillowcases
  • High-quality bath towels tea towel
  • Fashion accessories such as bags and hats
  • Home textiles such as cushions and plaids
  • Sheets and mattress covers
  • Decorative items such as bedspreads and throws

 

 

Turning linen into fabric

 

These steps transform linen into a high-quality textile material, ready for use in a variety of applications.

 

1. Linen planting:he initial cultivation of linen in deep, rich soil.
2. Growing linen:The process of growing linen, including soil preparation, sowing and planting density.
3. Harvesting linen: Picking linen when the leaves turn yellow and the seeds turn brown.
4. Linen ginning: Removing the seeds and separating the silky inner fibers from the straw.
5. Linen retting: The loosening and decomposition of unwanted fibers by exposure to natural elements or running water.
6. Linen drying: The process of drying linen after retting.
7. Linen purification:The steps involved in removing impurities and shorter fibers from linen.
8. Combing linen:Passing the fibers through metal combs to remove the last impurities and short fibers.

 

Linen care and maintenance

 

There are two common concerns when it comes to linen. The first is that linen requires meticulous care and is more fragile than other fabrics, particularly cotton. The second is that linen wrinkles very quickly, especially after washing. These beliefs are false, at least for quality linen!
In fact, linen requires no treatment whatsoever. In fact, it's easier to care for than you might think. Linen fabric can be machine- or hand-washed with ordinary washing detergent. What's more, it dries faster than most other fabrics! Here are a few simple tips for caring for your linen items:

 

How do I wash linen in the machine?

 

 

  • For the first wash, it's best to use a temperature below 40°C.
  • Linen should be washed at 40°C. If stubborn stains appear, you can increase the temperature to 60°C. However, high temperatures should not be used too often, as linen tends to shrink.
  • Linen should be washed separately from other fabrics and colors.

How do I dry linen fabric?

 

 

  • Linen can be tumble-dried at low temperature, hung to dry or left flat on a white towel. To avoid severe wrinkling and preserve the normal shape of your linen piece, it's best to dry it flat. Lay your linen on a flat surface and let it dry naturally. When you hang linen on a towel rail, larger creases can form where the hanging line passes. In addition, this can cause the linen to stretch as the water moves down and weighs down the edges of the pieces.
  • If you're using a tumble dryer, remove the linen while it's still slightly damp and finish drying by hanging it up or laying it flat on a white towel.
  • If possible, leave white linen pieces to dry in the sun. This will help maintain their brilliant whiteness.
  • Don't over-dry linen, as this can weaken or shrink the fabric.

 

How do I iron linen?

 

 

  • Iron pieces while they are still slightly damp.
  • Use medium to high temperatures and steam. If necessary, you can also spray the fabric with water.
  • Iron on the reverse side.
  • If you like the naturally wrinkled look of linen, you can skip the ironing step. Spraying a little water on the most pronounced creases will help to soften them slightly. Simply place your linen piece on a flat surface, spray with a little water and smooth with your hand. Leave to dry.

 

Can I use bleach on linen fabric?

 

 

  • You can only use bleach on white linen pieces, provided you rinse immediately to avoid yellow marks. Do not use bleach on colored items.
  • Oxygen-based bleaches are recommended.
  • Do not use chlorine-based bleach. It changes the shade of white fabrics and weakens the fibers, resulting in rapid wear and tear.
  • Use bleach with care. Avoid using it too often.

 

How do I remove stains from linen fabric?

 

 

  • There are many tips for removing specific stains, but not all of them are effective; some can even damage linen fabric. If you've spilled wine on a nappe en lin, coffee on your shirt or chocolate on your napkin, follow the general rules for washing linen..
  • If you decide to use a stain remover, test a small amount on an inconspicuous spot (the reverse side, a seam, etc.).

 

 

How to recognize linen quality

  • Check fineness and softness A quality linen should have fine, soft fibers. A looser weave reduces the quality and comfort of the fabric.
  • Beware of price: Price is not always synonymous with quality. Many major brands have turned to Asia, and despite their high prices, their products are often not of good quality. Choose home linens made in France! !
  • Check the composition: Make sure the product is 100% pure washed linen and contains no cotton or other fibers.

 

 

What about coated linen?

The acrylic coating applied to linen makes it stain- and water-repellent. This means that liquids cannot easily penetrate the fibers, making cleaning easier and preventing stubborn stains. A simple wipe with a sponge is all it takes to remove food or drink residues. What's more, the acrylic coating is not sticky to the touch, preserving the natural, pleasant texture of linen.

 

Le Jacquard Français, ambassador for quality linen

At Le Jacquard Français, we're proud to benefit from the Masters of Linen® seal of excellence. This registered label, which guarantees the European traceability of linen, reflects our commitment to the quality and origin of our products. As masters of linen weaving, we are committed to preserving the European linen tradition, from the cultivation of the plant to the transformation into yarn and the creation of beautiful fabrics. Thanks to this certification, we can offer our professional and private customers a guarantee of quality and authenticity. We carefully select the finest linen fibers, guaranteeing fabrics of exceptional quality, durability and softness to the touch.